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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.